Wednesday, December 07, 2005
Friday 2 December 2005
The first snow! Last Saturday 26 November, the day I went to meet M & C from their Eurostar train at the Gare du Nord, several centimetres thick, and necessitating the getting out of my snow boots, bought here in Saint-Denis two winters ago. The train was only a few minutes late, and it was lovely to see them both again. We left their luggage at the Consigne, and as they said they had had plenty of lunch on the train, we decided to go straight to the Grands Magasins at Boulevard Haussmann. I hadn't done any research on this, as I though we would have lunch first, but we managed to find a bus to take us there (Caroline was not keen on going on the metro) and spent a good afternoon shopping, if a little tiring and crowded. This included a luxurious tea in Maxim's restaurant in Galeries Lafayette where M & C had the richest hot chocolate drink of their lives, and where the decorations too were spectacular - a vast Christmas tree going right up into the dome. We also enjoyed the shop windows there and at Au Printemps, decorated with various animations especially for children, with little platforms to help them to see. M & I also visited C&A and Lafayette Maison, while C was in the toy department at Galeries Lafayette. Finally we went into the food hall and chose pâtisseries and bread for dinner, by which time everywhere was very crowded indeed, as everybody seemed to have decided to head for home at the same time.
Finding the bus back was not easy, as we were in the middle of a one-way system; but we managed it in the end and enjoyed the sit down and the views from the windows. We retrieved the luggage and met N who had come to fetch us in the car at 6.30 as agreed.
What should have been a quick journey took in fact over an hour, with many apologies from N; some sort of delay outside the station and then longer delays in Saint-Denis as a rugby match was about to start at the Stade de France. M & C settled in and found their way about the apartment, and we had apéritifs in the library and then dinner, an excellent Boeuf Bourguignonne, made earlier by N (plus the pâtisserie.) C slept in the little room by the stairs up to the attic, and M on the pull-out bed in the music room. N explained to them that they had a connecting door!
Sunday was spent in Saint-Denis; all the snow had disappeared but it was still cold. After breakfast M, C and I went to the market, where we only bought some gorgonzola, and then on to various cheap little shops where C bought many little things and M got a wonderful kitchen clock with built in timer. We returned home for a soup and cheese lunch (also expertly made by N) and in the afternoon went out again to the Basilique de Saint-Denis, where we visited the tombs of French kings and queens, and bought more bread on the way home, by which time it was raining fast.
We had tea and biscuits from IKEA and watched the video C had brought of the memorial service for the victims and survivors the London Bombings. Then I made roast chicken, stuffing, gravy and vegetables for dinner, and we watched television; M & C found a French version of The Weakest Link and a film which was easy to follow. It was decided that we should set out on Monday morning as early as we could.
We were ready to leave by 9.30 am with all luggage packed so they both said goodbye to N and the three of us set off on foot for Saint-Denis station. We briefly visited a little Franprix supermarket opposite; they had wanted to go to the larger Carrefour the day before but it was shut. We then caught a suburban train to the Gare du Nord and once again put the luggage (more of it by this time!) in the Consigne.
I had planned the day carefully and am pleased to say it all went well and a very good time was had by all! We spent the day at the department store Le Bon Marché and the food store La Grande Epicerie because they seemed to be the only stores open on Mondays. We walked from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de L'Est (down the very aptly named Rue des Deux Gares, and past a bar called Au Train de la Vie) and caught a bus which took us direct to Le Bon Marché. I hadn't realised what a scenic route this was, so it was a bonus when the bus took us past the Porte Saint Martin and the Porte Saint Denis, along by the Comédie Française and Palais Royal, right through the middle of the Louvre past the glass pyramid, across the Pont du Carousel with views of the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, the Musée d'Orsay and the Grand Palais, and then past Saint Germain des Prés and Les Deux Magots.
Once again we started by looking at the beautifully animated shop windows, and then on coming out of the Ladies on the top floor found ourselves in the best and largest haberdashery and needlework department we had ever seen! I had only been to the store a couple of times in the last few years, but then had a dim memory of being recommended all this haberdashery when I was living – and doing a lot of sewing – here in 1969, when it was still a rather old-fashioned shop. There were buttons, ribbons, wools, fasteners, patchwork pieces, beads, bindings, zips, feathers, appliqué, felt, fur, knitting kits, patterns, pins and bags, and we spent a long time there and all bought a few items.
We explored other departments: lingerie, textiles, fashion, stationery and Christmas decorations, where C and I were so delighted to see sets of Angel Chimes that M bought us one each as an extra Christmas present. We investigated several restaurants within the store and ended up having a long and enjoyable lunch in a very futuristic place where I had once eaten with N, including a chocolate mousse between the three of us; probably just about enough, as they were still recovering from Friday's chocolate overdose. (Although this didn't stop M from buying a bottle to take home!)
After lunch, pausing only for a little fresh air, and for M to get more money from a cash point, we approached La Grande Epicerie, by which they were both suitably impressed. It is a lovely food store, laid out by types of food but also by nationality; Italian food, Swiss food, and so on. C bought more here than either of us; wine, coffee, pâté, chocolates; M bought chocolate to take back to her office and I got vegetable crisps and German Lebkuchen to take home to N.
We had agreed during the day to get Christmas presents from me to both of them, and from them to me, and had been on the lookout as we went round, with an agreed limit of 25 euros. At the end of the afternoon we went back and bought them; M got a little silver necklace, C a canvas bag, and I got a string of pearls and a red Lancôme lipstick. M then decided to buy herself some earrings, making a total of three "paquets cadeaux" from the jewellery department. By this time we had conveniently run out of energy, money, time and enthusiasm and it was just about the right time to get our bus back to the Gare de L'Est; easier than on Friday as the bus stop for the other direction was just opposite. We watched all the sights again in reverse order as it was getting dark, found our way back to the Gare du Nord with enough time to get the luggage from the Consigne, (and re-pack with all the day's purchases) and for them to buy a snack for the train before checking in at about 5.45. All agreed it had been an excellent day and a lovely weekend.
When I got home I found N sitting with a laid tray of smoked salmon and white wine in front of the TV; a beautiful sight, but it turned out that the reason was because he was still waiting for the plumber to arrive and thought the kitchen might be inaccessible – a visit had been promised that day in response to a fierce letter he had written about the continuing leak. Two plumbers eventually turned up, and said that the leak was nothing to worry about, just "condensation". All shook hands, and that seemed to be the end of it. N, however, says he is not convinced.
Monday 5 December 2005
Since the visitors left much catching up has been done, washing, cleaning, dismantling of bedding, ironing and correspondence – there have been responses to my many letters regarding changing from British to French tax systems and healthcare systems.
I have been to two more chorale rehearsals; two weeks ago we were handed words and music from West Side Story, including I Like to be in America, which our chef began to try and explain, until he got stuck and I helped him out, after which he gave up! I said I would prepare a translation for the next week; which fortunately took less time than I thought, and which I much enjoyed. N helped with a few sticky bits. (So, if ever you need a copy of I Like to be in America in French, you know where to ask…) Last Thursday the rehearsal was in a different place, a very large (cold) hall where the Télethon concert was due to take place on Saturday. This was interesting as there was no piano, testing both our learning and our chef's teaching; he said we should do it more often! I was sorry to miss the Télethon (a kind of French Children in Need, I think) all the more so as the dress code this time included red tops, and I had just bought an inexpensive red sparkly top for Christmas in my shopping with M &C.
Thursday has also become our regular day for driving to Nogent-sur-Marne for N's dentist appointments (which seem to consist of having an artificial tooth fitted one week only to have it hammered out the next) Last Thursday he dropped me off at IKEA before getting to Nogent, and I spent a couple of hours browsing, or "researching", as I like to think of it, mainly for curtains this time. They are mostly very long (3 metres) and very inexpensive, which is a Good Thing. I also bought some Christmas cards and a salad spinner; the latter much needed by this household.
I have had my hair cut again; same salon, different stylist. This time I took a photo of me from about six months ago with a very good cut. I have now been cut very short, but very well! Still the same method with the clippers and the comb. This should last till well after Christmas, perhaps at La Neuve-Lyre? I have noticed that hairdressers and beauticians here do not seem to chat in the same way as in Britain; various topics of small talk I had prepared were not needed.
On Saturday, while everyone else was at the Télethon we went to the ballet, to see Casse Noisette (Nutcracker) at the Théâtre du Châtelet. It was a wonderful production which I liked better than the classical one we had seen a few years ago, although both were produced by the original Russian Mariinski company. The scenery and costumes were very large and colourful and almost pantomime-like, larger than life. And of course the music and dancing were wonderful. I love the theatre too, all red and gold and very traditional, with posters from the early 1900's. So I am very pleased that we are going again next weekend! The only downside was the weather: it was raining hard, and I was very careful of my black satin shoes, but they don't seem to have come to any harm.
N's new project is the researching and compilation of a history of the former Ursuline Convent and its grounds, where our apartment is. There are bags of documents and papers in the library. My latest project – now completed - has been the writing of Christmas letters and cards; they only remain to be posted, and I am summoning up the courage to go and stand in the Saint-Denis post office queue to get all the stamps. I think I shall wrap and post family presents at the same time. All have been bought and it all took much less time than usual; I would like to give details but it doesn't seem wise at this stage!
I have also been to another "mardi musical" at the Eglise Saint-Roch, I arrived a little late and it was a popular programme so I didn't get a seat, and sat the other side of the altar where I had a different view of the church. Must get there earlier tomorrow.
Last Friday we went down into the cellar (N's part of it) to check on some furniture that we intend taking to La Neuve-Lyre. It consists mainly of a "rustic" bedroom suite - large bed, two bedside tables and wardrobe – plus an older wardrobe, all of which came from N's first Italian house Il Prato. The bedroom suite is destined for our bedroom and the other wardrobe for the sewing room. Fortunately they all seemed to be in good condition (except that a mattress will need to be bought once we are there) so today we tried to progress further with our plans by looking into the possibility of hiring a van for N to drive them there sometime after Christmas. However, the Avis office was closed for lunch, so we must resume another day. We then went on to Auchan (larger supermarket some distance away) to buy some wine and a new kettle to tide us over the first few days at la Neuve-Lyre until mine arrives with my furniture! N has had the marvellous idea of a bedroom kettle there for early morning tea and coffee, to save going the long way downstairs to the kitchen.
We are still waiting for confirmation of the date of the signature - expected some time this week - as there are so many things which cannot be decided until the date is fixed. Matters have been further complicated by the planned closure of the lock-up garage where N keeps the car over the road, for the whole of January and possibly part of December. Although in theory the car can be happily housed in the garage at La Neuve-Lyre, it makes coming back to fetch things difficult.
Tuesday 6 December 2005
Have just returned from Paris, where I went to the regular concert at L'Eglise Saint-Roch. The journey was a little slow as there was a "movement social"- a euphemism for strike - on the RER, so I went most of the way by metro. (N keeps threatening to write a Transport Symphony with a first movement called Mouvement Social) Anyway, a good programme with tenor and soprano, except that the tenor made a not very good attempt at Comfort Ye My People from Messiah, which he pronounced Comfort Yay. Afterwards I discovered that a nearby Monoprix was the one I knew from l'Avenue de l'Opéra, so had a sandwich and bought a sparkly pair of tights to further my "opera" wardrobe. I found a useful post office where I got stamps for all my Christmas cards to send back to Britain. I sat and stuck them all on, then posted them in the box outside.
Since coming back home this afternoon, things have been happening fast – two phone calls from M Urset confirming the date for the final signature for the house as 20 December in Evreux, at the office of Mme V's notaire as planned, at 11 am. He asked me to confirm this to my notaire, so I have just nipped down the road with a letter. Very impressively, the secretary remembered the name of the dossier immediately! We now have to write another e-mail to Mme V re furniture, check the date and size of rental van with Avis, (not to mention the size of the furniture to go in it) and see if we have any further news re timing from Abels. And a long term resident here at Les Ursulines is coming at 6 pm to help N with his history project.
The first snow! Last Saturday 26 November, the day I went to meet M & C from their Eurostar train at the Gare du Nord, several centimetres thick, and necessitating the getting out of my snow boots, bought here in Saint-Denis two winters ago. The train was only a few minutes late, and it was lovely to see them both again. We left their luggage at the Consigne, and as they said they had had plenty of lunch on the train, we decided to go straight to the Grands Magasins at Boulevard Haussmann. I hadn't done any research on this, as I though we would have lunch first, but we managed to find a bus to take us there (Caroline was not keen on going on the metro) and spent a good afternoon shopping, if a little tiring and crowded. This included a luxurious tea in Maxim's restaurant in Galeries Lafayette where M & C had the richest hot chocolate drink of their lives, and where the decorations too were spectacular - a vast Christmas tree going right up into the dome. We also enjoyed the shop windows there and at Au Printemps, decorated with various animations especially for children, with little platforms to help them to see. M & I also visited C&A and Lafayette Maison, while C was in the toy department at Galeries Lafayette. Finally we went into the food hall and chose pâtisseries and bread for dinner, by which time everywhere was very crowded indeed, as everybody seemed to have decided to head for home at the same time.
Finding the bus back was not easy, as we were in the middle of a one-way system; but we managed it in the end and enjoyed the sit down and the views from the windows. We retrieved the luggage and met N who had come to fetch us in the car at 6.30 as agreed.
What should have been a quick journey took in fact over an hour, with many apologies from N; some sort of delay outside the station and then longer delays in Saint-Denis as a rugby match was about to start at the Stade de France. M & C settled in and found their way about the apartment, and we had apéritifs in the library and then dinner, an excellent Boeuf Bourguignonne, made earlier by N (plus the pâtisserie.) C slept in the little room by the stairs up to the attic, and M on the pull-out bed in the music room. N explained to them that they had a connecting door!
Sunday was spent in Saint-Denis; all the snow had disappeared but it was still cold. After breakfast M, C and I went to the market, where we only bought some gorgonzola, and then on to various cheap little shops where C bought many little things and M got a wonderful kitchen clock with built in timer. We returned home for a soup and cheese lunch (also expertly made by N) and in the afternoon went out again to the Basilique de Saint-Denis, where we visited the tombs of French kings and queens, and bought more bread on the way home, by which time it was raining fast.
We had tea and biscuits from IKEA and watched the video C had brought of the memorial service for the victims and survivors the London Bombings. Then I made roast chicken, stuffing, gravy and vegetables for dinner, and we watched television; M & C found a French version of The Weakest Link and a film which was easy to follow. It was decided that we should set out on Monday morning as early as we could.
We were ready to leave by 9.30 am with all luggage packed so they both said goodbye to N and the three of us set off on foot for Saint-Denis station. We briefly visited a little Franprix supermarket opposite; they had wanted to go to the larger Carrefour the day before but it was shut. We then caught a suburban train to the Gare du Nord and once again put the luggage (more of it by this time!) in the Consigne.
I had planned the day carefully and am pleased to say it all went well and a very good time was had by all! We spent the day at the department store Le Bon Marché and the food store La Grande Epicerie because they seemed to be the only stores open on Mondays. We walked from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de L'Est (down the very aptly named Rue des Deux Gares, and past a bar called Au Train de la Vie) and caught a bus which took us direct to Le Bon Marché. I hadn't realised what a scenic route this was, so it was a bonus when the bus took us past the Porte Saint Martin and the Porte Saint Denis, along by the Comédie Française and Palais Royal, right through the middle of the Louvre past the glass pyramid, across the Pont du Carousel with views of the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, the Musée d'Orsay and the Grand Palais, and then past Saint Germain des Prés and Les Deux Magots.
Once again we started by looking at the beautifully animated shop windows, and then on coming out of the Ladies on the top floor found ourselves in the best and largest haberdashery and needlework department we had ever seen! I had only been to the store a couple of times in the last few years, but then had a dim memory of being recommended all this haberdashery when I was living – and doing a lot of sewing – here in 1969, when it was still a rather old-fashioned shop. There were buttons, ribbons, wools, fasteners, patchwork pieces, beads, bindings, zips, feathers, appliqué, felt, fur, knitting kits, patterns, pins and bags, and we spent a long time there and all bought a few items.
We explored other departments: lingerie, textiles, fashion, stationery and Christmas decorations, where C and I were so delighted to see sets of Angel Chimes that M bought us one each as an extra Christmas present. We investigated several restaurants within the store and ended up having a long and enjoyable lunch in a very futuristic place where I had once eaten with N, including a chocolate mousse between the three of us; probably just about enough, as they were still recovering from Friday's chocolate overdose. (Although this didn't stop M from buying a bottle to take home!)
After lunch, pausing only for a little fresh air, and for M to get more money from a cash point, we approached La Grande Epicerie, by which they were both suitably impressed. It is a lovely food store, laid out by types of food but also by nationality; Italian food, Swiss food, and so on. C bought more here than either of us; wine, coffee, pâté, chocolates; M bought chocolate to take back to her office and I got vegetable crisps and German Lebkuchen to take home to N.
We had agreed during the day to get Christmas presents from me to both of them, and from them to me, and had been on the lookout as we went round, with an agreed limit of 25 euros. At the end of the afternoon we went back and bought them; M got a little silver necklace, C a canvas bag, and I got a string of pearls and a red Lancôme lipstick. M then decided to buy herself some earrings, making a total of three "paquets cadeaux" from the jewellery department. By this time we had conveniently run out of energy, money, time and enthusiasm and it was just about the right time to get our bus back to the Gare de L'Est; easier than on Friday as the bus stop for the other direction was just opposite. We watched all the sights again in reverse order as it was getting dark, found our way back to the Gare du Nord with enough time to get the luggage from the Consigne, (and re-pack with all the day's purchases) and for them to buy a snack for the train before checking in at about 5.45. All agreed it had been an excellent day and a lovely weekend.
When I got home I found N sitting with a laid tray of smoked salmon and white wine in front of the TV; a beautiful sight, but it turned out that the reason was because he was still waiting for the plumber to arrive and thought the kitchen might be inaccessible – a visit had been promised that day in response to a fierce letter he had written about the continuing leak. Two plumbers eventually turned up, and said that the leak was nothing to worry about, just "condensation". All shook hands, and that seemed to be the end of it. N, however, says he is not convinced.
Monday 5 December 2005
Since the visitors left much catching up has been done, washing, cleaning, dismantling of bedding, ironing and correspondence – there have been responses to my many letters regarding changing from British to French tax systems and healthcare systems.
I have been to two more chorale rehearsals; two weeks ago we were handed words and music from West Side Story, including I Like to be in America, which our chef began to try and explain, until he got stuck and I helped him out, after which he gave up! I said I would prepare a translation for the next week; which fortunately took less time than I thought, and which I much enjoyed. N helped with a few sticky bits. (So, if ever you need a copy of I Like to be in America in French, you know where to ask…) Last Thursday the rehearsal was in a different place, a very large (cold) hall where the Télethon concert was due to take place on Saturday. This was interesting as there was no piano, testing both our learning and our chef's teaching; he said we should do it more often! I was sorry to miss the Télethon (a kind of French Children in Need, I think) all the more so as the dress code this time included red tops, and I had just bought an inexpensive red sparkly top for Christmas in my shopping with M &C.
Thursday has also become our regular day for driving to Nogent-sur-Marne for N's dentist appointments (which seem to consist of having an artificial tooth fitted one week only to have it hammered out the next) Last Thursday he dropped me off at IKEA before getting to Nogent, and I spent a couple of hours browsing, or "researching", as I like to think of it, mainly for curtains this time. They are mostly very long (3 metres) and very inexpensive, which is a Good Thing. I also bought some Christmas cards and a salad spinner; the latter much needed by this household.
I have had my hair cut again; same salon, different stylist. This time I took a photo of me from about six months ago with a very good cut. I have now been cut very short, but very well! Still the same method with the clippers and the comb. This should last till well after Christmas, perhaps at La Neuve-Lyre? I have noticed that hairdressers and beauticians here do not seem to chat in the same way as in Britain; various topics of small talk I had prepared were not needed.
On Saturday, while everyone else was at the Télethon we went to the ballet, to see Casse Noisette (Nutcracker) at the Théâtre du Châtelet. It was a wonderful production which I liked better than the classical one we had seen a few years ago, although both were produced by the original Russian Mariinski company. The scenery and costumes were very large and colourful and almost pantomime-like, larger than life. And of course the music and dancing were wonderful. I love the theatre too, all red and gold and very traditional, with posters from the early 1900's. So I am very pleased that we are going again next weekend! The only downside was the weather: it was raining hard, and I was very careful of my black satin shoes, but they don't seem to have come to any harm.
N's new project is the researching and compilation of a history of the former Ursuline Convent and its grounds, where our apartment is. There are bags of documents and papers in the library. My latest project – now completed - has been the writing of Christmas letters and cards; they only remain to be posted, and I am summoning up the courage to go and stand in the Saint-Denis post office queue to get all the stamps. I think I shall wrap and post family presents at the same time. All have been bought and it all took much less time than usual; I would like to give details but it doesn't seem wise at this stage!
I have also been to another "mardi musical" at the Eglise Saint-Roch, I arrived a little late and it was a popular programme so I didn't get a seat, and sat the other side of the altar where I had a different view of the church. Must get there earlier tomorrow.
Last Friday we went down into the cellar (N's part of it) to check on some furniture that we intend taking to La Neuve-Lyre. It consists mainly of a "rustic" bedroom suite - large bed, two bedside tables and wardrobe – plus an older wardrobe, all of which came from N's first Italian house Il Prato. The bedroom suite is destined for our bedroom and the other wardrobe for the sewing room. Fortunately they all seemed to be in good condition (except that a mattress will need to be bought once we are there) so today we tried to progress further with our plans by looking into the possibility of hiring a van for N to drive them there sometime after Christmas. However, the Avis office was closed for lunch, so we must resume another day. We then went on to Auchan (larger supermarket some distance away) to buy some wine and a new kettle to tide us over the first few days at la Neuve-Lyre until mine arrives with my furniture! N has had the marvellous idea of a bedroom kettle there for early morning tea and coffee, to save going the long way downstairs to the kitchen.
We are still waiting for confirmation of the date of the signature - expected some time this week - as there are so many things which cannot be decided until the date is fixed. Matters have been further complicated by the planned closure of the lock-up garage where N keeps the car over the road, for the whole of January and possibly part of December. Although in theory the car can be happily housed in the garage at La Neuve-Lyre, it makes coming back to fetch things difficult.
Tuesday 6 December 2005
Have just returned from Paris, where I went to the regular concert at L'Eglise Saint-Roch. The journey was a little slow as there was a "movement social"- a euphemism for strike - on the RER, so I went most of the way by metro. (N keeps threatening to write a Transport Symphony with a first movement called Mouvement Social) Anyway, a good programme with tenor and soprano, except that the tenor made a not very good attempt at Comfort Ye My People from Messiah, which he pronounced Comfort Yay. Afterwards I discovered that a nearby Monoprix was the one I knew from l'Avenue de l'Opéra, so had a sandwich and bought a sparkly pair of tights to further my "opera" wardrobe. I found a useful post office where I got stamps for all my Christmas cards to send back to Britain. I sat and stuck them all on, then posted them in the box outside.
Since coming back home this afternoon, things have been happening fast – two phone calls from M Urset confirming the date for the final signature for the house as 20 December in Evreux, at the office of Mme V's notaire as planned, at 11 am. He asked me to confirm this to my notaire, so I have just nipped down the road with a letter. Very impressively, the secretary remembered the name of the dossier immediately! We now have to write another e-mail to Mme V re furniture, check the date and size of rental van with Avis, (not to mention the size of the furniture to go in it) and see if we have any further news re timing from Abels. And a long term resident here at Les Ursulines is coming at 6 pm to help N with his history project.